New climbs in the Findhorn Gorge and River Divie.

Ted Collins (author of the moray coast bouldering guide) has extended his reach inland, with the development of bouldering and some DWS in and around the Findhorn Gorge and River Divie. The crags are of compact schist and gneiss and set amongst old, mossy woodland. Of particular note is The Tomb, where Ted has added a slew of fine looking problems, particularly in the mid 7's. Curiously the area doesnt appear to host a problematic midge population so could be an idyllic summer venue. 

Teds friend Johnstone has also put together a short film. It uses high end videography in a muted style which I felt complemented both the place and Teds understated approach to climbing.

Ted takes up the story, complete with historical scene setting:

The Tomb is just off the River Divie and it’s a part of the somewhat newly developed Findhorn Gorges bouldering. It’s pretty cool, it’s got a couple of 6’s, loads of 7^th grade probs with linkups and a cool 8A/+ project which folk are totally welcome to check out! I’ve got it linked in 3 sections but it’s way above my paygrade, someone strong should get on it. Pretty much all the info is there on UKC with some topos at https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/findhorn_gorge-23177.

The wall is actually featured in an epic tale which took place the 14^th century (I think), where Alastair Comyn (of Randolph’s Leap) was smoked to death with 4 comrades in the narrow deep cave just down and left of the crag (I’m fairly certain). Gets a bit spooky there at night! The event is well covered in “The Great Moray Floods of 1829” by Sir Thomas Dick Lauder but Electric Scotland covers it aswell at https://electricscotland.com/webclans/atoc/cumming2.html. This is an extract from Electric Scotland.

“The Comyns at Dunphail had a similar fate, which is well told by Mr. George Bain in his book on the Findhorn. When Bruce’s nephew, Thomas Randolph, was made Earl of Moray, the Comyns found their old privileges as Rangers of the king’s forest of Darnaway restricted. By way of reprisal the Comyns set out, a thousand strong, under the leadership of young Alastair of Dunphail, to burn Randolph’s new great hall at Darnaway. The force, however, was ambushed by the Earl at Whitemire, and cut to pieces. Young Alastair Comyn fought his way to the Findhorn. He found the further bank lined by the Earl’s men, but, throwing his standard among them with the shout "Let the bravest keep it," he leapt the chasm at the spot wrongly called Randolph’s Leap, and with four of his followers made his escape. Moray then besieged Alastair’s father in his Castle of Dunphail, and brought the garrison to starvation point. On a dark night, however, the young man managed to heave some bags of meal from a high bank into the stronghold. Next day, by means of a bloodhound, he was tracked to a cave on the Divie. He begged to be allowed out to die by the sword, but was smoked to death by the Earl’s men. Then the heads of himself and his companions were thrown into his father’s courtyard, with the shout " Here is beef for your bannocks." The old chief took up the head of his son. "It is indeed a bitter morsel," he said, "but I will gnaw the last bone of it before I surrender." In the end the little garrison, driven by hunger, sallied out and were cut to pieces. Early in the nineteenth century the minister of Edinkilly found the skeletons of young Alastair and his companions, seven in number, at a spot still known from the fact as the "grave of the headless Comyns."

My friend Johnstone Macpherson-Stewart put a film together about me climbing there. His talent really shines through and the film nicely captures the mood of the place. I swear it took him like 15 mins to get those shots before he joined for a climb and I didn’t even notice he was filming half the time! It’s absolutely worth checking out his website (www.jmsfilms.com) and his instagram (@jms.films). 

The film can be watched here: https://vimeo.com/498723568

Sheigra - updated guide

The tumbling megaliths perched on the Atlantic frontier of the far North West are to me emblematic of Highland bouldering. Characterful and rugged, their searing features draw upon an instrinsic desire to interact with rock. The archetypal arete, the wall climb, the notched roof. These are top quality boulders with a stage presence, a license, thats fits their regal position. 

Robbie Gardiner and Dave Carrington have updated their Sheigra bouldering guide. Robbie tells us a little about his motivation to climb in the area (as if its not obvious!) and fills us in on some recent developments:

I have been travelling to the far North West of Scotland all my life, and there is really no place I would rather be. It seems to me, the further North you go the more beautiful it becomes. Perhaps less spectacular than the Munroes of Skye or Torridon, I find the uniquely characterful peaks of Sutherland stunningly beautiful, and the view on the road to Sheigra along the side of loch Inchard towards Fionaven and Arkle is simply breathtaking.

 

In 2019 Dave and I made out sixth climbing trip to Sheigra, over which time we had documented over 150 problems. The intention was to try to encourage other to come, and our first guide prompted several climbers to make the trip. This has led to development of Sheigra itself, but also Droman Pier just along the road and the Backstage Boulder near Rhiconnich. Most recently, Ullapool based climber Eadan Cunningham has been climbing numerous new lines and it was our real pleasure to meet up with him this trip. Another amazing discovery we made on this trip was the Gneiss bouldering up near Durness on the promontory at Rispond. We climbed some outstanding problems (not least 'RSVP - 7b', an overhanging rising line with beautiful flowing moves) and Eadan has since visited with his brother Calum to climb the amazing looking 'Simple Jack - 7c'.

 

In essence, the far North West of Scotland is just a wonderful place to explore. The rock is simply everywhere, breaking through the thin soil which hangs like a threadbare carpet between mountain, loch and sea. And no better place can be found than Sheigra, where countless clean boulders have tumbled onto a flat stone shelf just asking to be climbed. The rock and the climbs are so varied and plentiful, you could never tire of it. And whilst you wait, you can enjoy the view, where Oystercatchers glide over breaking waves, and curious Otters come for a nosey, and clouds skip across moody seas, and pensive climbers stop to watch and listen for a moment or two.

The updated climbing guide (2020) can be downloaded here.

Robbie uploads videos to his vimeo site here.

New Bouldering in Strathconon and Strathgarve

Climber, Ecologist and Dad Gaz Marshall (aka easter_ross_choss) updates us on development of his local patch: the lesser known interface between Inverness-shire and Wester Ross. 

Gaz takes up the story:

As far as bouldering goes, the area that lies in between the well-travelled venues close to Inverness and the promised land of Torridonian sandstone in the north west is a bit of a hinterland.  However, there are a few things worth seeking out if you’re in the area or in need of a break when crawling behind a campervan has lost its novelty. There are already a couple of well-known venues in Strathconon at Scatwell and Meig, both documented in John Watson’s Boulder Scotland guide.  The former is still probably the best single boulder in the area while the latter is now rather neglected and dirty. The addition of these new venues now means there’s actually a fair bit of fun to be had, with the usual caveats of ticks, midges and navigating rarely travelled choss.

Achilty Wall

Gid ref: NH421562

This short crag is visible up above the road in the trees just west of Loch Achilty.  At the far left of the crag is a wee roof with a couple of good problems.  They finish at jugs and you then jump off onto pads, although with a bit of cleaning the brave/reckless could continue to the top. There are a few other things lurking in the undergrowth in this area that are yet to be climbed.

Approach

Just north of Contin turn off the A835 on to the minor road into Strathconon, passing Loch Achilty. About 0.5km after the Loch Achilty car park there’s a house on the left (south) side of the road.  The crag is opposite this, up the hill in the trees.  It’s best to carry on for another 200m and park in the big forest entrance on the right, then go through the gate, immediately turn right and follow the deer fence until nearly opposite the house and then strike uphill to the crag.

Achilty Wall

1. Scuttlebug, 6A+. Crouch start at the left of the cave and head straight up to finish matched on an obvious protruding nose feature. Standing on the low embedded blocks isn’t allowed!
2. Heartbeep, 6C+. An excellent problem climbing the obvious feature of the cave roof. Crouch start in the same place as Scuttlebug (similarly, no blocks for feet) and use heels and a bit of burl to follow the underside of the cave roof rightwards to pull up into the hanging corner and finish stood on the protruding boss on the right with hands on hidden jugs on the slab.  2a. Lefthand Finish, 7A. Perhaps better than the original - from the hanging corner go left to the finishing nose of Scuttlebug.

Heartbeep 6C+

                                         

Gold Dance Boulders

Grid ref: NH398566

This is a little cluster of roadside schist boulders uncovered after recent forest felling makes a very worthwhile companion to the nearby Scatwell boulder. It’s surrounded by the usual chaos and confusion of a forestry clearfell but ignore that and enjoy the quality of the rock and views across the strath.  As well as the natural lines a few eliminates are included here to add to the fun.

Approach

Just north of Contin turn off the A835 on to the minor road into Strathconon, passing Loch Achilty. About 2 miles after the loch there’s an obvious clearfell on the right (north) side of the road. The boulders are on a knoll 200m after the 2nd gated forest entrance (parking, but don’t block the gates). If you get to Luichart Power Station, you’ve gone too far!

Most of the action is on the main block on top of the knoll visible from the road, but there are problems on the blocks higher up the hill behind this and on the short prow lower down to the west.

Gold Dance, 7A

Gold Dance boulder North

Gold Dance boulder South

Problems are described anti-clockwise, starting on the north (up hill) side.

1. North Wall, 3. Stand start. Climb the short wall right of the step and left of the wide crack (North Crack).
2. North Crack, 3. Sit start the flakey crack.
3. The Sleeping Lady, 5. The left arête of the west face, sit start.
4. Finger Crack Eliminate, 6A. West face. Surprisingly good for an eliminate. Sit start on the wee boulder.  Thin crack for hands, feet on whatever.
5. Gold Dance, 7A. Start sat on the wee boulder and squeeze upwards using the arête for the right hand and crack for the left.
6. Real Fool's Gold, 6C. The arête climbed on it's right side from a sit start directly under the arête. Finish the same as Fool's Gold. Linking the start of this into the finish of Gold Dance is still a project, get on it.
7. Fool’s Gold, 6A+. South face. The wall between the arete and wide crack. Sit start and straight up the wall, avoiding the arête and the crack.
8. Crack, 4. Sit start, layback to the left, right or jam straight in.
9. Crack & Flake, 4. Start up 8 and follow the flake rightwards.
10. Pixie Face, 6B. French start, jump up to the jug. Doing it static is an obvious challenge.
11. Pixie Righthand, 4. Low start just left of the edge and follow the flakes leftwards. No feet on the plinth!

Uphill Boulders

12. Gold Rush, 4. The right edge of the detached block just left of the big Flake (Frankie's Flake).
13. Frankie’s Eliminate, 6A+. The left side of the pillar formed by the flake, avoiding the flake until up high.
14. Frankie’s Flake, 4. The obvious big flake.
15. Cracked Slab Left, 4. Pad up the left edge of the big easy-angled slab to the right of Frankie’s Flake.
16. Cracked Slab Right, 3. Right side of the slab, using the crack and right edge.
17. Scrambled Gregg, 6A. Round the back of the upper boulder (behind Cracked Slab) is an egg-shaped slab. The vertical crack in the centre of the slab from a sitting start - the first move is hard, but the crack soon improves.
18. New Gold Dream, 6A. An eliminate on the arête right of Scrambled Gregg, climbed on it’s left side and avoiding the SG crack.
19. New Cold Dream, 5+. The NGD arête climbed on it’s right side, without using the block behind.

Prow

Downhill to the west of the knoll is a short steep prow.  

20. Sleep Thief, 6C. Only little but one of the best here. Sit start at the bottom right and follow the lip leftwards to mantle at the highest point. Despite appearances the landing is fine with a couple of pads.

Rogie Falls

The spectacular falls are worth a visit in their own right, but there’s a wee bit of climbing worth seeking out too.  Only a few problems have been done so far but they are surprisingly good (when clean…) and really easy to access so worth knowing about. There’s quite a bit of rock in the area so there may well be more gems lurking in the trees.

Approach

Park at the Rogie Falls Forestry Commission car park just west of Contin on the A835 and follow the path down toward the falls.  After a couple of hundred metres a path breaks off left (the blue signposted Forestry Commission Riverside Trail).  50m or so along here there’s an obvious boulder up to the left with a steep prow at its’s left end.

Prow Boulder 

Grid ref: NH 4441 5854

1. Rogie Prow, Font 5. Sit start. The steep prow, obviously!  Looks like it should be much harder but the holds are huge!  
2. Rogie State, Font 6B+. Round to the left of the prow, sit start at the short pillar that forms the left arete, moving rightwards to the same top out as Rogie Prow via a short hanging arete.

Rogie Prow, 5

Rogie Wall 

Grid ref: NH 4447 5866

Continuing about 200m further along the Riverside Trail there’s a steep bank on the left and above that Rogie Wall is hidden amongst the larches. It’s a bit of a battle up the slope and through the trees.  The problems here are all highballs and because they’re in a larch forest the tops get a bit of needle build up so worth checking and cleaning first. Problems described left to right.

1. Awake but Always Dreaming, 6C Straight up the middle of the tallest section of wall on the left.  The best problem here but sadly it seeps so needs a good dry spell. 
2. Left, 6A+ Right of the dirty corner, sit start up a ramp and climb straight up the left side of the clean wall.  
3. Middle, 5 The blocky crack up the middle of the wall.  Some slightly loose blocks low down so take care.
4. Right, 6A+ Sit start and climb the right arete on it’s left side. 

Awake but Always Dreaming, 6C

Tarvie Wall

Grid ref: NH 4215 5989

This one has all the hallmarks of a classic backwoods Scottish bouldering experience: a bit of a pain in the arse to get to, a bit tricky to get in good condition and only two problems done so far. But, if you’re willing to try you’ll get the best two problems in the area on a smooth bulge of brilliant rock. Both problems are quite high so a few pads are recommended and sadly they both take a bit of seepage so you’ll need a dry spell.

Approach: 

The wall is a cutting on the edge of the forest track that runs between Contin and Garve on the north side of Loch Garve.  It’s about 2 km from the parking on good tracks so easiest accessed by bike. Park at the first forest entrance west of Tarvie Cafe on the north side of the A835 and follow the track down to Loch na Croich. Cross the dam and follow the short continuation path through the trees to break out onto the main Contin to Garve track. Turn left and follow this. Just after passing under the railway bridge take a left and the wall is obvious on the right about 1km further on.

1. Reckoner, 7A. The left side of the blunt prow. From the big break slopers lead to the higher break then high rockover gets you established on the slab. Brilliant.
2. The Bends, 6A+. The obvious crack in the leaning wall round to the right. The top feels quite high but it’s all there.

Reckoner, 7A

Video of Sleep Thief at Gold Dance Boulders: http://flic.kr/p/22wzVQx

Video of The Bends at Tarvie Wall: http://flic.kr/p/28dKjoa

Videos of Heartbeep at Achilty Wall: http://www.instagram.com/p/CIsLhAEjNzj/

Video of a section of local things, some of which aren't in this guide (they're in Inchbae and Strathrusdale): http://vimeo.com/289517843

Aviemore bouldering guide

In this exclusive release, Strathspey dark horse Rory Brown shows us theres more to Aviemore bouldering than meets the eye. He's been dusting off old school classics, digging out warm up cracks and cranking out testpieces. Of course this has all been done in true Highland fashion, under the radar. #YouwontfindtheseonInstagram! 

Rory has produced a great bouldering guide to the area. Ive no doubt it will inspire fellow locals and passers by to get involved. Who knew there was a font 7c within a mile of the ski centre!? He takes up the story:

"Bouldering around Aviemore has a mysterious air to it. It's certainly not the first thing that springs to most people’s mind when planning a climbing trip to the area. A quick look at the Scottish Bouldering guide will satisfy a session or two at The Link or Cuca. But what if one desires more? There are whispers of hidden roofs, walls, midges and heathery adventures.

With a bit of searching the old Strathspey guide, produced by Mike Gale et al in 2000, will be found. A great local guide, in black and white. This was then updated sometime around 2010, with colour and pictures. But the rumour has it, there is more to be found.

So, the internet searches become even more nuanced. Pages from Gaz Marshal’s ‘Soft Rock’ begin to appear, and with your browser security turned on, links to pdfs of unusual venues will follow. The enthusiasm and effort put into these guides, blogs and videos is surely enough to get anyone psyched.

A further 10 years down the line this guide aims to bring all that information plus a few new areas into one place and focuses specifically on the boulders local to Aviemore. Although the bouldering may not rival more established areas, there is plenty of fun to be had if the mystery entices you."

The new guide can be downloaded here.