24 Dec 2008

Scourguie Project Climbed

In Craig Phadraig woods, above Scourguie, Inverness, is one of the steepest walls in the area. It's about 3m of 40 degree "good" conglomerate with a couple of decent lip traverses and some holds up the face. Not the most remarkable boulder ever but, at 20 seconds from Inverness, it's not bad. Mike Lee climbed central line giving a super powerful and crimpy "board" problem called Walk the Dog, around 7B+... The problem starts at a undercling and uses a few small pebbles and a pinch to slap for the left shoulder of the boulder. Unfortunately going to the apex doesn't really work,but a desperate sit start could be done... could that give the area's first 8th grade?

A film is on the video clips page.

23 Dec 2008

Brin Action

The Climber's Flat; Nic Duboust, Murdo Jamieson and Mike Lee, have made some news worthy (ish) ascents at Brin! Firstly, Mike Repeated the Scientist, 7B, after about a year of trying, largely thanks to Nic showing the way. It's no longer a tall persons sandbag which has got to be good. Amped, Mike added two new ways to enjoy the scientist boulder, a RH variation which cops out of the crux of the original by reaching to an obvious jug, around 6B, and a left variation, The Biologist, starting just after the crux of the scientist and breaks left into steepness on good holds. It needs to be linked in from the bottom of the scientist eventually, but it makes a great 6C. Else where in the forest, Murdo repeated Put Your New Shoes On, saying he thought 7B+, you could be right. Good effort dude.

16 Nov 2008

The Catch Repeated

Richie Betts has made the second ascent of the Catch (7B) at Scatwell. It's great to see someone succeed as lots of people (by inverness standards) came close to it. "It was bitchin" says Richie.

9 Nov 2008

Top Fives - Aretes

To get this blog going a little bit, this is the first top five list. I tried to do a top ten but ran out of ideas - in fact, it's hard enough coming up with 5. So without further ado, here's Inverness's best aretes.

Forest Mechanics, Brin: Font 6A+

This is obviously going to make list due to it being such a knife egde. It's high with a terrible landing but climbing it takes all what arete's should require; technique, balance, composure and a degree of style.

Richie's Arete, Duntelchaig: Font 6C

The Arete right of the dagger. Difficult to top out - but nicely chilled moves, lay backing on good holds up to that point.

Gorrila, Cummingston: Font 7a

Quality steep sandstone prow at cummingston.

Shreddies sit start, Ruthven: Font 7A+

This is maybe more of a bulging nose than an arete but I'm struggling to think - It's the most arete-ish problem at Ruthven. Two hard moves between sharp crimps at the bottom is the crux.

The Scientist, Brin: Font 7B

Another great line at Brin, this is a steep prow with huge reaches between good crimps. The top out has now been brushed up, but it still is highball. A really stylish problem, unrepeated.

17 Oct 2008

Blog Launch

Hi everyone