Ted Collins has produced a fantastic new bouldering guide for the Moray Coast venues Cummingston and Primrose Bay. Its a real labour of love and his enthusiasm for the area really shines through. It includes simple approach descriptions and grid refs as well as some useful info on local conditions. This should be of particular value to those visiting for the first time as climbing here in poor conditions can be disappointing . Newly armed with this knowledge don't be surprised if you turn up on a low tide winters evening to meet other lamp wielding enthusiasts taking advantage of mint conditions! The guide also includes crisp photo topo's and trad grades where appropriate. Ted takes up the story:
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There's been a lack of information for the bouldering at Cummingston. It's been about who you know to pass on the knowledge, watching vids online or piecing obscure descriptions with sections of rock. So many times I've been down there and bumped into folk trying to suss out what is what. The conversation would usually turn to how Cummingston doesn't have a decent guide despite it being a good long-standing venue. After a while I decided to take on the task.
I've been lucky enough to have these wonderful spots close throughout my life. Cummingston has always been great to me, with top-roping diffs with dad as a child to later learning the game of bouldering. Finally sending The Nest 6A after five sessions remains one of my best climbing experiences ever and got me totally hooked! I've also been fortunate to meet friends along the way through sharing an enthusiasm for the area.
The aim of this guide is just to pass on the info I've learned over the years (although there's plenty I don't know, first ascents of the older classics would be cool to find out). It's been a great process putting it all together. Hopefully you'll find it comes in handy for exploring this amazing coastline, enjoy!
This dropbox link should let you download the guide, it may ask you to create a dropbox account but just dismiss it and go to download."
